Lock off strength.
Southern sandstone can require a climber to make long reaches, when dynoing or deadpointing is not an option it is time to lock off! Locking off is where the climber pulls down the hold as far as one can and holds it, in a locked off manner flexing one's bicep, pulling the elbow to one's side (this is what is meant by lock off) while the other hand reaches up in a controlled manner and grabs the next hold. Lock it off! A simple pullup bar in a gym, gymnastics rings or the oak tree in your back yard can supply means for practicing a locking off.
- First exercise: lock off a pull up bar by placing your chin above the bar and hold for time or count of breaths.
- Second exercise: try the above mentioned lock off and "wind shield wiper" by moving your chin from above one hand to the next. this engages the arm with your chin above it with more weight on that arm and a more intense workout for that arm.
- Third exercise: with the gymnastics rings do a pull up and hold then extend one arm straight away from the body and locked off with the other arm. alternate and repeat these are called archers as it almost looks like an archer pulling back a bowstring.
- Fourth exercise: one arm lock off! Yep just like it sounds if you have mastered the above mentioned exercises its time to go for the one arm lock off! do a pull up (with both hands) lock off and then carefully let go with one arm and you're doing a one arm lock off!
Note: all of these exercises can be done pronated (palms away from you) or supinated (palms toward you) and a balanced climber will do both exercises, however pronated is often most relevant for climbing, however if your project involves a crux under cling you will be glad you did it supinated!
Remember to warm up and stretch before doing any of these exercises and listen to your body.
If you’re not having fun you’re doing it wrong!!